Cemented Construction: Is it as bad as they say?
When it comes to shoe construction, almost every style has a group that defends it. From the Goodyear Welt’s army of devotees wearing Allen Edmonds to Vulcanized Rubber’s skaters looking for feel. However, there is one style that is almost universally talked about in a negative way, if it’s talked about at all – cemented construction.
Looking at the population as a whole, however, cemented construction is the most common type of footwear – and it isn’t even close. Go people watching and you’re likely to see more than 75% of people wearing shoes that are held together this way.
That begs the question: if almost everyone is choosing this type of shoe, why is it so hated?
Quick Note: Almost every style of construction uses some level of glue to hold the shoe together, for our purposes here we are going to look at shoes that use no form of stitching or additional structural additions.
How It’s Made
Shoe construction doesn’t really get simpler than this. After the upper of the shoe is lasted, a thick layer of glue is added to the bottom and an outsole is attached. This adhesive is left to dry and, sometimes, any additional glue is removed.
Unlike other types of construction, the materials used here are almost limitless. EVA foam, eTPU, rubber, leather, and more are all commonly used as outsoles. Leather, suede, knit, mesh, and even wool are materials often used as the upper.
While resoling cemented shoes is technically possible, it’s extremely rare. The process is almost as simple as the construction. An adhesive dissolver is used to weaken the glue used in construction, the upper and new sole are cleaned, and a new layer of glue is added. Unfortunately, adhesive dissolver is often extremely damaging to the upper, and pulling away the old sole will typically cause more damage.
Benefits of Cemented Construction
Despite the hate that this type of construction gets in the footwear community, it actually has a lot going for it.
Cost
The most obvious benefit is cost. When making a shoe, there is no quicker way of connecting an upper with an outsole than a layer of glue. It also saves on materials – a 20-dollar welt might not be much on a $500 pair of Aldens, but it’s a lot on a $40 pair of shoes. Thankfully, these cost savings are often seen by the consumer. Not everyone wants to drop hundreds of dollars on shoes.
Break-In
Cemented construction shoes are the most flexible out of the box – bar none. In fact, in almost every case, this style of construction has zero break in at all (though, the upper and outsole might need some). This was one of the reasons why Jordan Brand actually moved from stitched soles to fully cemented while Jordan was playing.
Availability
No matter if you’re looking for a sneaker or something more formal, you can go on Amazon, Nordstrom Rack, or basically any store in the mall and find a pair of cemented construction shoes, buy them, and get on with your day.
Drawbacks of Cemented Construction
Of course, cemented construction comes with a host of drawbacks as well.
Resoleability
While it is technically true that a cemented shoe can be resoled, for everything other than a few rare sneakers it’s almost never worth it. These shoes are designed to be worn for a short while and then thrown away. This comes with both financial and environmental damage when the shoes are replaced.
Longevity
Shoes that use this type of construction will often have the adhesive fail before the upper or outsole. This can come due to a cheap adhesive, poor application, or simple age. Once the outsole starts to come off, the shoe is pretty much trash, even if the rest had tons of life left.
A Sign of Poor Materials
It’s true that there are exceptions – some sneaker brands make the choice for other reasons – but for many shoes a cemented sole is a sign of poorer quality materials elsewhere. Cementing typically means that the manufacturer was trying to keep costs down. These cost savings are often seen in the quality of the materials elsewhere, and the time put into things like stitching.
Companies that use Cemented Construction
It would be impossible to list even a small percentage of companies that use cemented construction, however here are a few examples that use cemented construction on at least some of their shoes:
When Should You Pick a Cemented Sole Shoe?
It’s true. Cemented shoes are never going to replace a stitched construction, even something like a sewn-on cup sole, for longevity. However, it is undeniable that they don’t deserve as much hate as they get.
First, at lot of people want a shoe that is 1) cheap and 2) easy to find and try on. They could not care less about the differences between a Blake Stitch and Stitchdown Stitch. Or if Vulcanized Rubber trades off ease of attachment for durability. They are going to get a pair to wear for 6 months and throw out. Cemented shoes offer these customers a great option.
Second, and maybe more relevant to people who are 900 words into an article on shoe construction, these shoes make a great pair to just throw on and go. With cemented shoes you never need to worry about the weather, break in, or if it’s time to resole. Sometimes you’re just running to target for milk at 9 PM. Sometimes you’re starting a pick-up game of basketball and comfort and flexibility matter more than artisanal craftmanship.
Maybe it’s time to give cemented constructed shoes a break.