Edward Green Hampstead: The “Affordable” Tassel Loafer
Price: £990 / $1,275 USD
Why Buy?
The Edward Green Hampstead offers more casual take on the tassel loafer, without drifting into “old man” territory.
Why Avoid?
The Edward Green Hampstead is expensive, and doesn’t have the same panache as the Belgravia.
Specs:
| Model | Hampstead |
| Height | 2.5 inches |
| Materials | Suede / Rubber |
| Size | 11 UK / 11.5 US |
| Weight | 563 g / 1 lb 3.8 oz |
| Construction | Goodyear Welt |
| Country of Origin | United Kingdom |
History:
Edward Green is one of the most respected names in men’s footwear for a reason. Their no-compromise approach has always meant that they design a shoe first, and then put a price on it. If that price makes mere mortals cry, then so be it. Or, at least, that is what their marketing says.
That is why it was so interesting for me to find the Edward Green Hampstead tassel loafer. Released alongside the similarly priced Greenwich, the Hampstead aims to be a more affordable option sold next to their well-known Belgravia. Affordable, of course, being relative here.
That, of course, raises some pretty significant questions. What does a brand that prides itself on not cutting corners cut in order to find a lower price? Is this pair a steal, or a knock off that doesn’t deserve to arrive in the teal-colored box? Should you consider buying a pair?
Let’s dive in and find out.
Looks:
Upper:
The Edward Green Hampstead is available exclusively in suedes, and this pair is no exception. Arriving in a beautiful mid-to-dark brown color (called “Mink” by the brand), there is visually nothing to complain about here. We’ll go more in depth on the different types of suedes in the materials section, but visually it’s important to know that really good suede is noticeably different in hand than the cheaper stuff. Everything on the internet compresses photos – this website, your browser, etc. – so the pictures you’re seeing don’t do it justice. It’s truly a sight to behold.
Moving onto the details themselves, the Hampstead features a few interesting items that separate it from the rest of Edward Green’s line. First, the toe is actually a true moc-toe (even if the upper is still one piece). Where most loafers have a ridge sewn into a solid piece of leather, here the leather is split and then resewn along the edge of the toe. Ultimately, this gives a much more casual appearance.
While I’m sure someone can provide another example in the comments below, this is the only single-piece tassel loafer I can think of with this feature.
Adding to the casualness of the loafer, very little of the lace is exposed on the top of the shoe. This separates the shoe from its laced counterparts. It gives off a bit of a Belgian Shoe vibe.
Other than these details, the Hampstead definitely falls into the “classic tassel loafer” design. The laces run along the edge of the throat. A seem runs up the back. Etc. This is a tried-and-true design, and it makes sense to not mess with it too much.
Inside, the Edward Green Hampstead is fully lined with tan calf. The quality here, just like the outside, is top notch.
Mid- and Outsole:
While the outsole is always rubber, the color of the outsole on the Edward Green Hampstead varies depending on where you purchase it. The standard model comes with a dark brown outsole, but this particular pair from Mr. Porter is finished off with a neutral tan. In either case, Edward Green will try to match the leather welt and heel stacks to the rubber. I can see the appeal of the different colors, so it’s great to have options.
Speaking of the welt, the 270-degree welt is as good as it could be. With high stitch density, and flawless lines, there isn’t even anything to nitpick.
Underneath, the Hampstead uses what Edward Green calls their “city rubber.” This is a fairly thin outsole, designed to places where something like Dainite would be too chunky. Traction is done through pretty shallow grooves cut into the ball and heel of the foot. It even has a faux-line to make it look a bit like a topy.
Summary:
The Edward Green Hampstead is a decidedly casual take on the Edward Green tassel loafer. Where most single-piece tassel loafers work well with a sport coat or even a suit, these would feel out of place with either. While you might be able to get away with something in cotton or linen, I think the Hampstead should really be reserved for business casual and lower.
While that might seem limiting, it also highlights their party trick. Where most tassel loafers struggle to find that spot between “too formal” and “old manish,” the Hampstead nails it. Nobody will confuse these for those beat up kilties that every man over 75 is assigned on their birthday, but they will feel at home at a restaurant on vacation.
Fit & Comfort:
Fit:
There is no more brand more frustrating to me when it comes to sizing than Edward Green. The Hampstead is no exception.
To begin with – where most shoes use a full size between their UK size and their US size, Edward Green uses a half size. Meaning if you’re normally a size 12US and a size 11UK, in these you’re a size 11.5UK. In other words, no matter where you are in the world, the Edward Green sizing isn’t your normal sizing. At least they do label the US size correctly on the box.
Next – where both the US and the UK use “E” as a wide fitting, Edward Green uses E to mean a standard width. To add to the confusion, Edward Green’s standard fitting is actually somewhat narrow.
To summarize, they are a half size too big for Americans, a half size too small for the British, and their wide size is narrower than a standard size shoe.
One thing they get right is that they don’t adjust their lasts based on what socks they assume you wear. Many brands assume you’re wearing extra thick wool socks for boots and no socks for loafers. Edward Green figures you’re wearing the same socks all the time and lets you adjust if you need. Then again, since nobody else does this, maybe it’s more confusing.
Once you do get your size down, you’ll find this 137-lasted shoe is somewhat narrow in the toe box, but do a good job grabbing your heel. While the pictures in the review are an 11UK, I exchanged for an 11.5UK that fits correctly. For reference, I wear a 12US in Alden’s Van last, and an 11UK in Cheaney’s 214 last.
For a list of sizing for all shoes reviewed on 100wears, Click Here.
Comfort:
The Edward Green Hampstead may look like it would fall in the Quoddy True Penny Loafer vibe of minimalist construction and lack of support, but looks can be deceiving. When worn, the loafer feels like a well-constructed dress shoe.
Of course, that can be good or bad. If you want something that feels like you’re wearing nothing at all, this may not be the loafer for you. It isn’t particularly flexible, even with the soft and stretchy upper. At the same time, it gives much better support than that style of shoe.
I injured my foot a year or so ago, and wearing completely unstructured shoes for more than a couple hours borders on impossible for me now. With that in mind, this build is welcome. Before the injury I loved the barely-there feeling. It’s really just personal preference.
One thing is for certain, though. The Hampstead is not an uncomfortable shoe, and I don’t think anyone will avoid wearing it because of the comfort. At least, assuming you get the sizing right.
Materials & Construction:
Materials:
The materials on the Edward Green Hampstead are really something special, not that it should really come as a surprise.
I need to start with the suede. Most suede you find is known as split suede. This is where a hide is split, the top part goes to more expensive products, and the lower part is made into suede. This is great at offering an affordable option, but it isn’t nearly as durable or luxurious.
Edward Green uses unsplit suede.
Unsplit suede is effectively a roughout leather, where the entire hide is used. Unsplit suede is significantly more expensive – easily double the cost or more – but feels like a completely different material. This upper should be much longer lasting than what you typically think of as suede.
Inside the shoe, the lining is cowhide, as is the leather underfoot. Moving further down, a cork-filled midsole holds a wooden shank, with a rubber outsole finishing it off. There is no cost cutting anywhere to be found here. Wooden shanks are my personal favorite, as they are much better for metal detectors and weight. I’ve never had one break on me.
Where most Edward Green shoes use vamp stiffeners, I don’t believe this is the case with the Hampstead. While not specifically listed by the manufacturer one way or the other, there is no obvious structure around the side of the shoe.
Construction:
The Edward Green Hampstead uses a goodyear welt construction.
For a more in-depth guide on what that means, click here. If you’re looking for a cliff notes version, Goodyear welting essentially means a piece of leather – known as a welt – is connected to the upper of the shoe. This piece of leather is then sewn onto an outsole.
The benefits of a Goodyear welt are that during resoles, the welt takes the extra wear and tear. After several resoles, the welt itself can be replaced, adding to the life of the shoe.
While I don’t normally bring it up, I will say I’m slightly disappointed Edward Green uses traditional gemming. Most goodyear welted shoes – the Hampstead included – use what’s known as gemming to attach the welt. This is a piece of canvas glued to the insole, which the welt is then sewn onto. Where stitching the welt to the upper needs to be done by hand, gemming can be done by machine. This significantly reduces labor costs.
For almost everyone, this glued gemming is fine. It’s unlikely that the glue holding the gemming on will fail early in the shoe’s life. To go further, many other high-end brands that compete with Edward Green also use gemming. All that being said, of the various ways to make a shoe with a welt, gemming is the cheapest and least durable.
At the price Edward Green charges, I don’t think it would be unreasonable to ask for construction that is a bit higher end.
Ease of Care:
One of the big benefits of using this type of suede is that it is much, much easier to take care of than you might expect. Sure, if you spill red wine or motor oil on them, you’ll get a permanent stain, but it does a great job at cleaning off the grime of office wear.
You’ll want to make sure you have a suede kit on hand. This will help keep the suede fluffy and remove surface level stains. There are numerous levels of kit available, but I found that everything but the cheapest of the cheap works just fine.
Next, you’ll want to ensure you use shoe trees when the Hampstead is not in use. Edward Green repeatedly says that you should only use their Edward Green branded shoe trees. This argument could ring true of their trees were lasted (the shape of the shoe). However, they are not. Edward Green has a dozen lasts of different shapes, and only one shoe tree design. Is it closer than the woodlore alternative? Definitely. Is it going to make a big difference? Almost certainly not. At least the little logo will look good while your shoes sit in the closet.
When it comes to resoles, I typically suggest you go to the maker if possible. More often than not the pricing is similar to the local place, and, if they make a mistake, they will be able to replace the shoe for you. With Edward Green, though, that is a tough recommendation. They currently charge $400 for a resole, plus the cost of shipping to and from the UK. $500 in total is not an impossible amount.
While I probably wouldn’t suggest taking your Edward Greens to any cobbler, Bedo’s, Brian the Bootmaker, and more will do a great job for less.
Pricing & Value:
Price:
As mentioned at the top, the Edward Green Hampstead is their most affordable tassel loafer you can buy. Coming in at “just” 990GBP, or around $1,275 USD, the Hampstead is around $150 USD less than the more well-known Belgravia. Still… ouch.
The good news is that finding a pair on sale is very possible. Both MatchesFashion and Mr. Porter have stocked them in their recent sales with as much as 40% off, bringing the cost closer to $700 USD. Of course, sizing and color will be limited during these sales.
If you’re looking for an alternative, most of the direct competitors to Edward Green are suspiciously absent from this market. If they do offer a tassel loafer it is likely extremely fashion forward, and not something you’d be likely to cross shop. Instead, I would suggest looking at these three alternatives.
First, the Crockett & Jones Cavendish. Made not far from the Edward Green factory, the Cavendish is priced at $695. Second, the Alden Tassel Loafer. The original maker of the tassel loafer, you can find the shell cordovan version for $796, or the suede version for $593.
Finally, while I’m not sure too many people will cross shop, I have to give a flag to the Grant Stone tassel loafer. In all of the tassels I’ve worn, none has been as comfortable as the Grant Stone. For it’s $282 price point you can’t expect it to have the detailing of the Edward Green, but it’s much more wearable over a long day.
Value:
Despite being the “value” option in Edward Green’s line, the Hampstead is not a value choice. Of course, I don’t think Edward Green or their buyers are looking for the best value.
You buy an Edward Green loafer because you want the best. You know about the law of diminishing returns, but feel no need to abide by its teachings.
Evaluating this shoe on its value is like evaluating a Nike solely on the quality of the leather. It isn’t the point of the shoe.
Wrap Up:
The Edward Green Hampstead loafer is a top-quality product. Other than the gemming in the construction, and the frankly outrageous resole price, if the price you pay doesn’t concern you than you will enjoy the shoe.
That being said, the price really isn’t that much different from the flagship Edward Green Belgravia. When you’re paying a mortgage payment to get a shoe, an extra 10% is likely to get lost in the wash. The Belgravia’s name also means it ends up selling for much more on the secondary market, so over the life of the shoe you might end up paying more overall for the Hampstead.
If the Hampstead’s true moc toe design calls to you, go for it and you’ll no doubt enjoy owning this loafer. However, if you’re looking at the Hampstead as a way to get into the world of Edward Green for less, I’d suggest shelling out a bit more for the true classic.