Initial Impressions, New Balance, Sneakers

New Balance 990v3: Everyone Else’s Favorite 990

October 1, 2023October 1, 2023 by 100wears

Price: $185

Why Buy?

The 990v3 offers the dad-shoe look without the excess bulk, and has actually become a bit of a value pick after keeping the price steady for a decade.

Why Avoid?

While great at a lot of things, the 990v3 isn’t the best at any one.

Specs

Model	New Balance 990v3
Height	Low
Materials	Pig Suede / EVA / PU / Rubber
Size	13
Weight	488 g / 1 lb 1.2 oz
Construction	Cemented
Country of Origin	United States

History

Where the New Balance 990v1 and 990v2 were launched as a way to disrupt the market, the New Balance 990v3 was different. By the time this sneaker came out, New Balance had already established themselves in the premium sneaker game.

Launched to celebrate the 30^th anniversary of the 990v1, the New Balance 990v3 was supposed to bring the sneaker into the new millennium. Even if it launched 12 years into it. The brand from Massachusetts really went back to the drawing board with this. The rethought the upper, the midsole, the technology, the materials. Even the grey is a noticeable change from previous versions.

The 990v3 definitely struck a chord when it came out, but maybe more interesting, it’s actually increased in popularity with age. So much so that even finding a pair can be difficult in 2023. When going around and picking up each of the models for this comparison, this was the hardest to get, and three of the other models (v1, v2, and v5) are not even currently in production!

However, it isn’t all roses here. The previous versions of the 990 were designed to be the very best sneaker New Balance could build. Cost be damned. The New Balance 990v3 includes – gasps all around – compromises. Does this mean that the 990v3 is the start of the brand simply trying to print money instead of build a quality product?

Let’s dive in and find out.

Looks

Upper

A few months back, I called the 990v1 the genesis. But it isn’t. Not really. That was the beginning of the name.

No, the upper on the 990v3 is the design that modern New Balances are built off of. Of course, you can see hints of the past in this sneaker, but if you go up to a random person on the street, they would be hard pressed to tell the difference from models made after this one.

What is the formula that New Balance finally landed on with this sneaker?

Starting with the overall shape, the sneaker moves away from the wedge-shaped-upper on a wedge-shaped-outsole look the brand had previously used. Even the 992 and 993 are more wedge shaped than this more modern design language.

As you go in, you’ll notice more about the shape. A higher, rounder toebox. Way more padding around the ankle, adding visual heft, etc. This is a very different feel than before.

Getting into the details, you see that same essential DNA here. Larger mesh panels add reflectivity to the upper. The suede is a lighter grey than before, with a more blueish hue. There is even color! The tongue and heel both feature red hits, a theme that will later become a staple of the line.

Inside, you’ll find a smooth poly liner, and the brands current efforts at a retro logo. On this shoe there is a massive clock tower logo on the insole. I’ve got to admit, I much prefer the “New Balance Classics” logo most retros get. Though, it’ll wear off in a couple weeks so not a big deal one way or the other.

Mid- and Outsole

Much like the upper, the bottom half of the New Balance 990v3 was really turned up to 11. There are a lot of words I can use to describe it, but subtle certainly isn’t one of them.

Featuring no less than 7 different tones of white/grey/black on it, the midsole might just be the defining feature of the sneaker. These colors are not just for show – other than the writing, at least. Each of them represents a different density of foam, or a representation of non-visible foam. There is a very small plastic heel cap, though I’m not sure it does anything for actual support.

Flipping the sneaker over and again it’s a feast over famine for the eyes. Here the colors are limited to “just” 4, but again they indicate different materials. A lighter colored grey under the ball of your foot is for softer impact, and as the rubber panels get darker, they also get harder for more durability.

Smack in the middle is a real carbon fiber shank. For durability I would have loved to see a thin clear rubber over it, but no doubt it looks cool.

Summary

The New Balance 990v3 is a lot of people’s favorites 990, and I can see why. It’s got all that dad shoe charm, but before all the brands wanted to challenge Balenciaga’s Tripe S for the bulkiest shoe out there. The sneaker isn’t a “statement,” it was designed as function over form, and there is a beauty in that.

I personally like the pair as well, though I can’t help but feel – at least in 2023 – it’s in a bit of a no mans land for styling. It’s almost a victim of its own success. Since New Balance managed to really find the right balance with this shoe, they still use a very similar pattern today. In other words, it doesn’t feel retro in the way that a Jordan, 574, etc. does.

At the same time, it doesn’t feel particularly modern either. Recent runners have a different feel to them.

In a weird sense, I think that this shoe will look a lot better in 5 or 6 more years. Maybe that’s why it’s continuing to increase in popularity.

Fit & Comfort

Fit

The New Balance 990v3 fits true to size, if maybe ever-so-slightly long. However, I don’t think that length will impact anyone’s fit directly, so I’d start with your typical sneaker size.

As far as fit goes, the padding on this sneaker is almost ideal. Anything less and the mesh panels and soft suede would make them so stretchy it would be hard to get a good fit with any sort of lock down. Anything more and you’ll see a situation where the sneaker will soon become to big as the padding breaks down.

I take these in a size 13, which is my standard sneaker size.

For a full list of sizing for every shoe reviewed on this site, click here.

Comfort

It’s probably no surprise, but the New Balance 990v3 is one of the most comfortable sneakers out there. The big difference is the support – most sneakers are really good at adding more padding for squish, but don’t actually support your foot.

Really, the only competition out there for supporting your foot as you walk are other New Balance sneakers. While these are probably not the best shoes for actually running in, I would have absolutely zero concern wearing these all day in any other activity.

Work, visiting a new city, hanging out with friends, moving heavy boxes. These will be great in each of these situations as far as comfort goes.

Honestly, if your idea of comfort is “more squish / more better” you need to try a modern Made-in-America New Balance sneaker.

Materials & Construction

Materials

The materials on the New Balance 990v3 are definitely a big selling point for the sneaker. The vast majority of the upper is made of a light grey pig suede. Unlike most other sneakers out there, there is no polyurethane in it, no coating – just quality material. This is backed by a foam-backed mesh and some man-made support structure (the dark grey panels).

The details on the sneaker are almost plastics – from the smooth lining, to the N, to the lace bracing. This isn’t a bad thing, but also doesn’t set the sneaker apart.

Under your foot things start to get interesting. The insole itself is a closed cell foam. It’s OK – not the best, not the worst. Going with a drop in insole (I like Currex) will improve it.

However, under your foot there is quite a lot going on. There are actually 4 different types of foam in the sneaker, each composing different percentages of EVA and PU. Up front – the white foam – is entirely EVA. The dark grey foam – which actually is only an exterior casing – is almost entirely PU. The mid-color grey and the foam directly under your ankle (not visible) are combination PU/EVA foams. Pretty interesting set up, though hard to explain in just a few words here!

Rounding off the sneaker, the outsole is made up of different harnesses of rubber. Of course, a carbon fiber shank is embedded, as mentioned above.

Now for the bad, the parts you can’t see are a definite downgrade. The heel cap in the older models is extremely well made, this one is much more flexible. Similarly, the interior lining near the toe is thinner.

Construction

The New Balance 990v3 is made with cemented construction.

Cemented construction is how the vast majority of sneakers are made today. If you want an in-depth explanation, click here. However, the short version is that the upper of the shoe is lasted and sewn, and that is glued directly to the midsole.

Cemented construction is the preferred option today because it is incredibly flexible, the most weather resistant option, and affordable to make. The drawbacks are that it is not very durable since a thin layer of glue is the only thing keeping the sneaker together, and is very difficult to resole.

Pricing

The New Balance 990v3 currently costs $185. Mentioned above, they are hard to find, however they are not impossible. This means you’re unlikely to find them on sale, but resale pricing isn’t crazy – typically hovering either slightly above or slightly below retail depending on when stores get their stock in.

When the sneaker first launched at this price, it was among the most expensive in the marketplace. However, since then, other well-known sneakers have caught up and surpassed this one. Jordan 1s are the same price, UltraBoosts are $190, and other retros can be well into the $200’s.

Add in that these are made in the U.S. with higher quality materials, it’s pretty easy to justify this price point.

Is the New Balance 990v3 Worth It?

The New Balance 990v3 is a well-made, attractive sneaker that is comfortable, durable, and not impossible to get. (Though, not easy either)

Personally, I struggle a little bit with the styling being not-quite-retro and not-quite-modern. If I want a casual sneaker for just hanging out, I’m reaching for the 990v2. And if I’m walking around all day, probably the 990v6. However, this is really nitpicking.

Another way of looking at it is that the 990v3 can be used both as a kind-of retro style and a kind-of comfort king at the same time. No need to pick between the two.