History

Nike Dunk

The Nike Dunk, as you can probably guess by the name, started off as a basketball sneaker. Originally released in high form, the Nike Dunk was offered as a more affordable option in the Nike line up. It’s similarity to the Jordan 1 isn’t by accident. It was designed by the same guy (Peter Moore) and released in the same year (1985). Even then, though, the Dunk was designed as a way to express yourself before absolute performance.

One of the first marketing campaigns for the Dunk was the “Be True to Your School.” This campaign featured bright, university-themed colors that allowed players to match their jersey. Or, allow them to look like they played on the team for post people.

Being the bottom rung of the sneaker ladder can only take you so far. With the Jordan 1 often going for half price back when it first released, the humble Dunk was discounted more and more. In come the skaters.

If you’ve ever done street skating there are a few things most skaters look for. You want padding to protect your foot when you mess up, a flat sole to grip the board, and something cheap enough you can replace it once you wear through the upper. While Nike didn’t realize it, they were currently selling a sneaker most saw as perfect for skating.

Nike Dunk SB

You’d think a brand like Nike would realize the hit they had on their hand. However, instead, the brand released sneakers that were… questionable. One even went by the name “Choad.”

It took around ten years for Nike to figure out what skaters had known about for years. It started with the release of the Nike Dunk Low Pro B. This is when we started to see sneakers that most of us would recognize as a Dunk Low SB. It was the introduction of the fat tongue, elastic bands, and the heavy use of suedes.

The last piece of the puzzle was Sandy Bodecker. Bodecker, who had just been moved over to General Manager of Nike SB, put on the final touches. A new sockliner and outsole design for more durability, more foam and a small zoom air unit for comfort. Even more padding for the inevitable board to the ankle problem and boom: The Nike Dunk Low SB was born.  

After a series of collabs put the Nike Dunk Low SB on the map, it turned into a wild success for Nike. Until it didn’t. As the chunky styles of the early 2010’s faded for sock-shoes like the Ultraboost, the extremely padded Dunk SB fell out of fashion. Most of them were packed up and shipped straight to outlets.

After a huge pop just after the pandemic, Nike Dunk Low SBs are now somewhere in the middle. Good colorways sell out, bad colorways go on sale, and the common colorways are typically available at retail in your local skate shops.

Looks

Upper

One thing to know before we get into looks when comparing the Nike Dunk Low SB vs Dunk Low. The Nike Dunk has been in production for 4 decades. The Nike Dunk Low SB has been in production for 2 decades. Over that time there have been a number of changes made to each model. Further, especially on the Dunk SB, individual skaters will modify their sneakers. If you see them on TV, or they release a collab, you might find something different.

The comparisons below are for the Dunk Low in 2024, and the Standard Dunk Low SB in 2024:

Starting from the top, the first thing you notice is the significantly more padded look of the upper on the Dunk SB. The opening of the sneaker flares out in every direction – something you don’t see in the standard Nike Dunk low.

Speaking of the opening, the liner is of a tighter weave and is much more exposed. The Dunk SB lining wraps basically onto the exterior of the sneaker.

While we’re here we should talk about the tongue. It’s probably the first thing anyone notices on an SB Dunk Low when comparing to the Dunk Low. The SB tongue is as thick a tongue as I’ve ever seen on a sneaker. It also comes in the same material as the lining, rather than the nylon you find on standard Dunks. On top of that tongue, the SBs feature oval lacing, while the standard dunks get flat lacing.

Changes slow down on the exterior of the sneaker, however. Sure, the shape of the padding is different, but most of the panel design is the same. The biggest change is that most (but not all) SBs have rolled leather at the toe to provide better wear against skate tricks.

Outsole

Flipping over the sneakers, you can start to question Nike’s story telling. When comparing the Dunk Low SB vs the Dunk Low, Nike claims they redesigned the outsole for better durability. They did redesign it, but clearly for flexibility, not durability.

We’re all familiar with the classic Dunk Low outsole. A radial pattern around the pivot point circle up front; the block pattering in the back. These two halves are joined by a Nike Logo in the middle, all in a single piece of rubber.

The Dunk Low SB, however, changes things up a bit. The first thing you notice is that many of the rubber chunks have additional cut outs. Again, this should help with flexibility and weight – something the SB really needs – but not durability.

The other change is the cut out in the middle exposing the foam midsole. The SB offers more in the way of padding, and this exposed foam allows the user to see what is inside the sneaker.

Do the Nike Dunk Low SB and Dunk Low fit the same?

While it might surprise you to hear that when comparing the Dunk Low SB vs the Dunk Low, there are noticeable differences in the way they fit. The standard Dunk Low is about as classic a fit for Nike as you can find. A bit narrow compared to more modern sneakers, but will almost certainly be what most people consider to be their “true size.”

The same can’t be said for the Dunk Low SB. Due to the thick, dense padding used throughout the sneaker, these tend to fit a bit smaller than standard Nike size. If you do plan on wearing these to actually skate in, this tighter fit might not be a bad thing. This means that when you’re flicking your feet around for tricks you won’t end up with a sneaker 20 feet across the skate park.

On the other hand, if you’re wearing these for purely casual wear and don’t mind that you might need to tie the laces, most people will probably feel more comfortable going up a half size from what they wear in standard dunks. However, if you’re in a larger size like I am, it’s probably better to go with your true size rather than a full size up unless you have particularly wide or tall feet.

Are the Nike Dunk Low SB and Dunk Low the same comfort?

One big thing to consider when comparing the Nike Dunk Low SB vs the Dunk Low is the comfort. Nike Dunks are famously uncomfortable sneakers. They were the bottom of the Nike basketball line up 40 years ago, and there has been a lot of improvements since then pushing them further down.

The standard Dunk Low’s padding is just a thin, cheap insole on top of a thin, full-length wedge of foam. That’s it. This minimal padding continues around the ankle, with almost no padding. What is there is very low density, and is mostly for style purposes.

 It’s clear that for the Dunk Low SB, Nike wanted to try and fix some of these. As mentioned above, the first thing Nike did was bulk up the padding around the ankle. They even added extra padding to cup your ankle.

Next, Nike completely reworked the under-foot padding. First, they actually gave less padding in the foam wedge. It is no longer full length, and there is less of it in the heel. However, in replacement, they offer a multi-material insole.

Built on a closed cell foam base, the Dunk Low SB has a large PU pad up front, and a Zoom Air unit in the heel. Both of these make a big difference in comfort.

Now, let’s not get ahead of ourselves. There is only so much you can do with a 40-year-old design, these are not comparable to an Invincible Run. However, if I needed to wear one to talk around in I know which I would be taking.

Materials

Of all the categories, the material the sneakers are made of are going to have the biggest variance when comparing the Dunk Low SB vs the Dunk Low. Nike is constantly tweaking what materials they use as they try and balance profit with consumer expectation, so take all of the below with a grain of salt.

In general, the Dunk Low SB is going to have more premium materials than the Dunk Low. This is mostly for a practical sense – stiff, thin leather is simply not going to be able to stand up to skate tricks. If you want to have the sneakers last more than a month you have to use better stuff.

However, the differences don’t stop at just the leather. The padding on the Dunk Low SB is significantly more substantial than the Dunk Low. This means it will last a much longer time before flattening out. Though, if sizing is a problem on your Dunk Low SB maybe that isn’t a good thing.

Of course, as mentioned above, the Dunk Low SB has a completely reworked padding system. The PU, or polyurethane, in the in the insole will act like memory foam. This means it’ll provide great padding and longer durability. The Zoom Air – basically an air unit with strings in it to help rebound – won’t be quite as durable but will still last a long time.

Ultimately, there is no comparison in this category. In every way the Dunk Low SB will have better materials.

What’s the price difference between a Dunk Low SB and a Dunk Low?

When it comes to price for the Dunk Low SB vs the Dunk Low, at least in 2024, there really isn’t much difference at MSRP. The standard Dunk Low and the Dunk Low SB both come in at a price of $115.

Both models feature various upgraded features for a higher price but, surprisingly, the Dunk Low actually goes higher – with SE variants coming in as high as $135 while premium level Dunk Low SBs are $125. Of course, collaborations can throw these prices out of whack.

Considering that the Dunk Low SB will almost certainly have nicer materials at each level, the value at MSRP clearly goes to the SB version.

However, there is one big caveat here. While it’s much better than it was in 2023, there is no escaping that there isn’t the same ease of buying a Dunk Low SB. It’s fairly easy to find one of the basic colorways at MSRP, but unless it’s a really ugly pair you will probably be paying MSRP.

The Dunk Low, however, is much more readily available. If you’re not too picky on color you should be able to go into your local outlet today and find pairs sitting on the back wall for 40% or more off.

What all this means is that, in a practical sense, you’re going to be paying around $60-80 for a pair of standard Dunk Lows, and closer to $115-125 for a pair of Dunk SB Lows.

At that price difference, I think the value is more of a tossup.

Which is right for you, the Dunk Low SB or the Dunk Low?

Ultimately, which is right for you will depend on a few things.

If you really intend to skate in your sneakers, or have some disposable income, the Dunk SB is a clear winner. With better materials, greater comfort, and no longer having an absurd resale, the Dunk SB wins in nearly every category.

That being said, it is still Nike leather and build quality. While it’s fine, you shouldn’t be expecting Common Projects level build quality in an SB.

Knowing that, I think that most people who just want the style of the Dunk will be better served going with the standard pair. You can walk into any sneaker store or Nike outlet and find at least 4 or 5 colorways sitting on sale. If they get messed up, there is no reason to cry over it – you can easily replace them.