Helm Zind: Business Casual in the Office or the Bar
Price: $295
Why Buy?
The Helm Zind offers a well built, dressy option for the guy looking for a great business casual boot.
Why Avoid?
The Helm Zind isn’t designed to be a true work-boot, and has limited choices on resoleability.
| Model | Zind |
| Height | 6.5″ |
| Materials | Combo-tanned leather / Rubber & Leather Outsole |
| Size | 12 |
| Weight | 774 g / 1 lb 9.3 oz |
| Construction | Blake Rapid |
| Country of Origin | Brazil |
History
Helm as a brand has been around since 2009. While that certainly doesn’t make them the oldest bootmaker out there, that’s older than you might think. Their first boot, built in a service boot style, beat Viberg’s service boot to the market by a year. The same is true of Oak Street Bootmakers, Rancourt, Truman, and many of the other well-known brands. All of these came after Helm. While far from ancient, they are certainly among the oldest of the new crop of bootmakers.
And, while it might seem like everyone is doing it now, Helm was one of the first to try and make their shopping a bit more playful. Their boots are named after their friends – this particular pair after Amanda Zind, their studio manager. They offer a style quiz on their website. There are even inspirational quotes on the insoles of each pair. In 2022 none of that seems groundbreaking. But remember, when they launched their competitors were either Red Wings being flipped by salesmen in strip malls, or Alden stores where you needed a suit to get the time of day. Everyone does this today because of brands like Helm leading the way.
That doesn’t mean they have not changed. As Helm has grown, they’ve needed to change the factory making their boots 3 times to keep up with demand. The brand has added shoes, loafers, and even a 3D printed slip on.
With all these changes, should you consider picking up a pair of Helm boots? Let’s take a look at one of their most classic models – the Helm Zind – to find out.
Disclaimer: Helm provided this pair for the purposes of a review, however this post is not sponsored. The opinions here are true and my own. Helm was not given the chance to edit this post, or review it before it went live.
Looks
Upper
When it comes to the upper of the Zind, I have to say that the leather is the star of the show. Particularly in this teak colorway. Out of the box it’s basically your standard light-brown, but the teak has some of the most dramatic pull up that I’ve seen on any leather. It comes alive with a bit of wear. In fact, while I normally do the initial review pictures fresh from the box, I scuffed these up for the pictures because I thought it was important to show off. Keep an eye out for an update after 100 wears.
Beyond that, the upper on the Helm Zind sticks pretty true to classic derby boot style. No cap toe, no separate heel cap, etc. Slightly exaggerated proportions – take a look at the cut of the leather where the shaft meets the toe – keep things from getting too formal, however. Pretty much the only change from the basic derby pattern is the loop on the back. Speaking of that loop, it has a really nice detail. The inside of the loop is actually covered in a skived piece of leather. In other words, when you put your finger in, the loop is finished leather rather the grain.
Stitching is clean throughout the upper, though you should know Helm opted for thick thread. This isn’t a bad thing, I think the style fits the boots well, but you’ll see things like where thread is burned off more clearly than you will on a different pair made with thinner thread.
The last Helm uses on most of their boots, including the Zind, is much more elongated than a typical boot last. Being a quintessential almond-toe shape, this is definitely on the more formal side of last shapes.
Mid- and Outsole
On the Helm Zind, the defining feature of the midsole is the white stripe running between the welt and the outsole. It’s something Helm has been doing since their inception.
I need to get something off my chest here. I’ve seen countless reviews of people saying that, while they’ve seen people complain about the white strip on the midsole of Helm boots, the reviewer personally likes it. Thinking about it, though, I’ve never actually seen anyone say they don’t like it. I’m sure that there is someone out there who doesn’t, but I don’t think it’s controversial to say that is an interesting design that most people like and offers a nice change of pace from standard.
Flipping the boot over, you’ll find Helm’s “fineline” outsole. That’s just their way of saying an integrated rubber half sole without lugs. This outsole keeps the boots from being able to play as “work boots” – either in look or actual function – but I think it works well with the last. If you want something thicker, the Hollis is a nearly identical option with a lugged sole – but I think the Zind is the pick between the two.
One little detail that I like are the nails along the edge of the toe. These act like toe taps, and will keep the front of the outsole from wearing too quickly.
Summary
The Helm Zind is a great option for those looking for something that is a bit on the dressier side. Helm themselves will even tell you that these go with a suit. While I personally wouldn’t go quite that far – the pull up leather, white midsole, and back loop would be tough with tailored pants – these are a great option for a business casual boot. The type of boot you can wear to a less formal office, and then out to get drinks afterwards.
With this dressier vibe, I’ve found pairing these with chinos and a button down is perfect. You can go up to creased cotton trousers without much concern. Denim can work as well, but I’d suggest a darker dye and without too much contrast fading.
Fit & Comfort
Fit
The Helm Zind, built on their 415 last, reminds a lot of the Viberg 2030 in shape. Just without the wonky sizing. In other words, it’s fairly generous through the ball, but narrows quite a bit in at the toe box. I found going with my typical “go-to” size fit me best. A half size down worked on most of my foot, but resulted in some uncomfortable toe pinch.
If you have slightly wide feet (or even just slightly wide toes), I’d go true to size. If you’re on the narrow side and prefer a closer fit, I’d consider going down half a size. Helm also offers an EE width, but I think the folks who typically go for an “E” width will be better off in the D over the EE.
In the event you do get the sizing wrong, Helm offers free returns and exchanges, so getting the wrong size is pretty low risk. The only thing you’re losing is the time to turn them around.
I wear these in a size 12 D, which is the same size I wear in most high-end footwear. For reference, I wear a size 13 in most Nike sneakers. For a full list of sizing for every shoe reviewed on this site, click here.
Comfort
Out of the box, the Helm Zind is stiff. The double layered midsole and the thick leather on the upper simply don’t line up with out-of-the-box flexibility. I have almost never felt a boot needed a break in. Even notoriously stiff boots like the White’s MPs were comfortable for me within a few days.
The Helm Zind needs a break in.
That being said, this isn’t my first pair of Zinds, so I do know they will soften up with a bit of wear.
Other than the break in, you should know that Helm boots rely on a thick layer of foam padding underfoot to provide comfort. This is welcome in this style of construction as it doesn’t allow for a layer of cork that is common on a lot of other boots. I’ll leave an update on durability once I’ve put these through their full paces, but from what I’ve been able to tell the padding does a good job.
One thing I should flag is that, while there is a bit of arch support in this boot, it is quite low. If you’re coming from traditional dress shoes you might not notice, but Helm is probably the lowest arch of any boot-specific brand we’ve taken a look at. There isn’t really a “correct” level for arch support – everyone’s feet are going to be different – but if you have a high arch and/or need a lot of support there, you may need an insole.
Materials & Construction
Materials
The upper of the Helm Zind is made of Balthazar leather, tanned by B’ Leather tannery. Balthazar is a hot stuffed combination tanned leather. In other words, the hide is first chrome tanned, then heated up and filled with various oils and waxes, before being finished off with a vegetable tanning process. The leather here is thick – about 3 millimeters. That’s right up there among the thickest leathers reviewed on this site.
That thick upper is lined with a fairly thin leather. I actually prefer a thinner (or even no) lining as I find it breaks into my foot quicker, but you should know the lining isn’t there for additional support. In between the upper and lining, the toe and heel cap are both held in place with clastic stiffeners.
Underfoot, the insole – covered with the same leather as the liner – is a pretty dense foam. Sometimes foam insoles in boots can bring up durability concerns, but this is dense enough I wouldn’t be too worried. You’ll almost certainly wear out the outsoles before you wear out the foam, and Helm’s resole program replaces the foam when you send it in.
The underfoot stack actually has a lot going on. Directly under the padding is a leather board, with a fiberglass shank built in. As I’ve mentioned before, unless you’re climbing telephone poles, I much prefer a fiberglass shank over steel. They are lighter, more airport friendly, and I’ve never heard of one breaking under everyday use.
Under the shank is that famous white-rubber layer, then the leather/rubber outsole. The heel is a dovetailed leather/rubber combination, held up by additional leather stacks.
Construction
The Helm Zind is put together with what is known as “Blake-Rapid” construction, somewhere between a typical Blake stitch and a Goodyear welt. To begin, after lasting, the boot has a stiff piece of leather sewn directly through to the upper, in the same way you would sew an outsole onto a Blake stitched shoe.
Then, another piece of leather (and, in the case of Helm, a piece of rubber) is sewn onto the bottom that first piece of leather along the edge with what’s known as a “rapid stitch.” Hence, the Blake-Rapid construction.
Pure Blake footwear, while being extremely light and flexible, has some obvious drawbacks – especially when it comes to water resistance. Goodyear welting is durable and water resistant, but can be heavy and result in a tougher break in. Blake-Rapid splits the difference, offering better water resistance and durability than pure Blake, while being easier to break in and lighter than Goodyear welting.
Ease of Care
When it comes to taking care of your Helm Zinds, Helm themselves offer an almost overwhelming number of products. You’ll almost certainly find what you’re looking for but, honestly, you don’t need to go out and buy the whole store to keep your boots in good shape.
If you plan on wearing these casually – and with this leather I expect you will – really the only thing you need to pick up is some conditioner, a brush, and some shoe trees. Helm recommends Venetian Leather Balm, and while that is good stuff, I’ve personally found Bick 4 does just as good a job and might save you a couple bucks. If you are looking at wearing these a bit more formally, this leather should take a polish. Helm recommends Pure Polish, though I’ve never personally tried it.
Of course, you’ll want to make sure you keep shoe trees in your boots when you’re not wearing them. Shoe trees will help prevent excessive toe spring, and keep deep creases from setting in. Helm has a branded set here that should look great in your closet, or you can get a generic set off Amazon. Either way, get something and put them in there.
The only real major draw back with Blake Rapid construction is that a lot of neighborhood cobblers can’t resole, but thankfully Helm has a solution to that. While they don’t do resoles themselves, they have partnered with NuShoe to offer resoles with the original outsole options, along with replacing the insole padding, the midsole, fixing any loose stitching, and a condition. If you want to try something new, instead of the traditional Helm outsoles, you can get the Vibram miniripple – a fan favorite.
Pricing & Value
Price
The Helm Zind comes in at an MSRP of $295. This pricing puts them on the more affordable side of boots in this range. If this is your first pair of Helm boots, signing up for their email list (on the bottom of their homepage) will save you 15%, bringing the price to an even $250.
If that price is still out of your budget, Helm has a pre-owned market place as well. Some of the options there are definitely well worn, but this is also where Helm sells samples, seconds, photoshoot pairs, etc. Look for the “Brand Direct” logo. Availability can be hit or miss, but it’s good to know it’s out there.
The biggest competitors to the Zind are going to be the very similar Hollis and Lou. Built on the same last, using the same leather, it’s really just the outsole and toe cap that are different. The Hollis is the same $295 price point, but the Lou undercuts them both at $265 MSRP.
Value
The Helm Zind offers a really compelling value argument. First, they are well made. I know that doesn’t sound like it’s accomplishing much, but many of the boots in the same price bracket simply are not.
More importantly, though, are the little touches that nobody sees but show that there was durability in mind when designing the boot. Things like the nails in the outsole near the toe, or the lining in the pull loop. Nobody will ever see these when you are wearing them, and I bet a lot of owners don’t even know about these.
Helm could have easily skipped these and upped their profit margins a bit. However, that can be said for a lot of stuff that you’ll never see. Knowing that Helm was thinking of areas that people are very unlikely to see makes me feel more confident they were thinking about areas people will never see.
Only a long-term test will be able to tell for sure, though. Be sure to check in for an update in around 6-8 months’ time.
Wrap Up
The Helm Zind is a great business casual option. The last and overall design means it will work in the city, but the materials used means it won’t fall apart in the country.
Better than expected!
You get what you pay for…