As you can imagine, my Google News feeds me a lot of stories related to men’s footwear. One article I see more than any other is variations on “How Many Pairs of Shoes Should You Buy” or “How Many Shoes Are Too Many?”

When I click through and read these, I’ve always been surprised about the definitiveness of their answers. Within two paragraphs you’ll have a list saying X dress shoes, X boots, X flip flops, etc. This has always surprised me a bit. A 27-year-old sneakerhead in NYC is going to have very different needs than a 34-year-old business consultant in Atlanta. Or a 45-year-old construction worker in LA. Or an 18-year-old college student in Tulsa.

Being this specific can create real problems. Overbuy, and you’ll waste money buying pairs you don’t need and will hurt your wallet. Underbuy, and the pairs you have will break down on you, hurting your back.

To my eyes, the real answer is that it depends.

Of course, I know that isn’t why you clicked the link. You want to know how many pairs of shoes a man should own. However, instead of giving you an exact number, I’d suggest following a certain number of guidelines that will make sure you’re never caught out – while also not draining your bank account for no reason.

Rule 1: Shoes Need Rest

Just about every type of footwear needs at least 24 hours in between wears. It doesn’t matter if it’s foam in sneaker midsoles or leather on the uppers of boots, footwear needs time to expand and dry out between wears. Think about the pounding a pair of shoes takes in a day, add on that your feet sweat out about half a pint of perspiration per day, and you can see why. Two pairs of shoes rotated will last significantly more than twice as long as a single pair worn every day.

What this means for your rotation is that if you’re going to want to wear the same style two days in a row, you’ll need a minimum of two pairs.

Rule 2: Remember Maintenance (if investing in higher end products)

Tying into Rule 1. If you’re going to invest in higher end stuff, remember that regular maintenance is going to be required. This ranges from little things like conditioning that needs an extra day or two to dry, all the way to sending in a pair for a resole which could take weeks or even months to be completed.

What this means for your rotation is that if you might want to consider adding an additional pair during the times one pair is out of commission. This might mean getting 3 shoes for work, instead of two.

Rule 3: Dress Appropriately

We’ve all seen it. Either a young man who wears boat shoes with his suit, or the older guy wearing full strap penny loafers on the beach. Shoes are the foundation of an outfit, and can stick out like a sore thumb when out of place. If you’re trying to look your best, you need to have the appropriate shoes to go with your look.

What this means for your rotation is that, while you probably don’t need a pair of monk straps or high-top sneakers, you should look at your lifestyle and have at least one pair for each environment.

Rule 4: Protect Yourself

For certain activities, you don’t want something that is “just OK”. Many shoes and boots are specifically designed to prevent injury. It’s pretty safe to say: any money spent to prevent injury is better than money spent to treat it. This covers everything from running shoes and hiking boots, to safety equipment such as steel toes and red-X Vibram outsoles.

What this means for your rotation is that taking care of yourself is more important than keeping your closet clean. If the footwear keeps you running longer, it’s worth adding.

Rule 5: Embrace “In-Between” Styles (if you want to save)

The previous two rules push for buying more, but it’s important to remember that there are some pairs that can straddle events. The right pair of penny loafers (like the Alden Leisure Hand Sewn) can work with everything from chinos and an oxford, to wool trousers and a sport coat. A pair of Adidas Stan Smiths can go the other way, working with chinos and an oxford all the way to shorts and a t-shirt.

What this means for your rotation is that one or two key workhorse pairs can cover a variety of outfit types. Just be sure to not break rule 1 in the process.

Rule 6: Lock in Sales When Possible

Ultimately, there is one morbid fact that everyone faces. Either you keep living, which means you’ll probably need to replace those shoes at some point. Or you won’t, in which case having an extra pair of unworn shoes in your closet probably isn’t your biggest concern. Knowing that, if you see a sale on a style that you’re probably going to need within the next year or so, it probably makes sense to pick it up now.

What this means for your rotation is that it’s OK to have an extra pair or two that doesn’t see much if any wear, as long as you know you’ll need it eventually. The one big caveat with this is that there is a limit. Foams degrade, leather cracks, etc. No need to go overboard.

Summary

Using these rules, each man is going to come to a slightly different outcome – and that’s OK. One guy might have 3 pairs of Oxfords for his Monday-Friday, and two pairs of sneakers for the weekend and be just fine. Another might have 2 pairs of Oxfords, 3 pairs of loafers, 2 pairs of casual boots, 3 casual sneakers, hiking boots, running shoes, and a pair of flip flops and still not be going overboard.

The right number of shoes will be the number that allows you to rest and maintain pairs, while also resting and protecting yourself.