Price: $425
Why Buy?
The Meermin Chukka in Shell Cordovan offers outstanding value paired with classic design.
Why Avoid?
The Meermin Chukka in Shell Cordovan required certain compromises to meet it’s price point, and the single width won’t fit everyone.
Specs
| Model | 514460 |
| Height | 4.5 inches |
| Materials | Shell / Leather |
| Size | 11.5 UK |
| Weight | 649 g / 1 lb 6.9 oz |
| Construction | Goodyear Welt |
| Country of Origin | China |
History
For a long time Meermin, the Spanish-based company, was known for shoes that were uncomfortable and hard to fit. Go back a few years and you’ll see those comments written by this very author.
However, more recently, it’s clear that Meermin has taken these concerns to heart. Earlier this year I took a look at their Unlined Softcalf Loafer – aimed directly at the comfort allegations – and found that it felt more like a slipper than anything else.
Today, however, Meermin wants to address the sizing concerns with the launch of a line of chukkas using their Negon last, an easier fitting shape released a couple of years ago for their service boot line.
Can this new Chukka allow Meermin to go 2-for-2 in addressing concerns people have had in the past? Let’s dive in and find out.
Looks
Upper
This new Meermin Chukka – officially named the “514460” so I’ll stick with Chukka here – is a completely new design which is being offered alongside their older pattern. With this model, Meermin clearly wanted to lean into a more classic Chukka design.
That means a two-eyelet pattern, mid-cut, and a lower heel. It also means a triple-stitch connection of the quarter panels to the toe box, which is a detail found on Chukka boots for generations. These, combined with a much lower toebox, help push this design into something that sheds the clunkiness of older Meermin designs.
The new Meermin Chukka launched in 4 colors including a brown waxy calf, snuff nubuck, and brown nubuck. However, if the budget allows, I’d strongly recommend picking these up in the burgundy shell cordovan. Just like the new upper pattern, shell cordovan sits at the intersection of business casual and business formal, and it comes with a few other bonuses we will get to later.
The shell cordovan is a rich burgundy color. Online it’s an even purplish red, but in person there is a heavy amount of marbling. Not sure if that’s what Meermin intended, but I prefer my shell to have a bit of color variation so I think it looks great.
The stitching on the shoe is good overall, though there is a small bit of fraying on the interior lining. Panel alignment and lasting are spot on, as well.
Mid- and Outsole
Moving down to the bottom of the Meermin Chukka is where you’ll find the biggest departure of the different colorways. This burgundy shell make-up features a dark brown storm welt, which perfectly offsets the upper. Sorry to black and mid-brown, but this color just the obvious choice for welt color with burgundy leather.
This color moves to the single-layer leather outsole and stacked heel, lowered to work with the more modern design of this Chukka.
Underneath, the Meermin Chukka uses a closed channel leather outsole. If you’re not familiar, closed channeling is a piece of stylistic handiwork that involves slicing the outsole leather, attaching it to the shoe, then carefully gluing the leather panel back down. Closed channeling is done purely for visual appeal, and is great to see on a boot at this price point.
If you opt for any of the other colors, you give up the storm welt for a flat one, and the leather sole for rubber. I know I typically prefer rubber soles, but visually it is not a contest between the two.
The welt stitching on my pair is clean – cleaner than the one on Meermin’s website actually.
Summary
The new Meermin Chukka, especially in this shell cordovan make up, is an excellent addition to a fall wardrobe. Their professorial vibe works perfectly with smart denim, flannel pants, or – what I am wearing them with now – corduroy.
That being said, even though I see these as more casual, you shouldn’t get them confused with more casual desert boots. These boots remain highly structured, almond toed, and refined.
Fit & Comfort
Fit
The new Meermin Chukka is built on the Negon last. This means a wider, lower toe box like you would typically find on more casually styled boots. However, like other European-style footwear, I still find them to be on the slightly narrow side in the toe box.
As this is a brand-new model for the brand, there is currently only one width available, however I think that most people will be able to fit these unless you find you need a particularly wide toe box.
I got them in my standard UK size of 11.5, which translates to a 12.5 in US sizing. For comparison, I’m the same size in Allen Edmunds, typically wear a 12 in most Alden lasts, and wear 11.5 in pacific northwest boots.
Comfort
When it comes to the Meermin Chukka, you need to be honest with yourself when it comes to comfort – at least for these shell cordovan pairs.
You picked them because shell is some of the toughest leather on earth, and that shell was lined with horsehide. Of course, these are going to take some extra time to break in. They are made using their Flex Goodyear Welt system, which should in theory make for an easier break in, but don’t be fooled here. The cork filling wasn’t going to be the thing that made these harder to bend.
Still, give them some time, and they should eventually take the shape of your foot and feel like armor. Or you can get one of the non-shell pairs, which likely will feel like a glove after a few wears.
Materials & Construction
Materials
The materials on the Meermin Chukka in this burgundy shell cordovan are pretty impressive. Especially considering the price that they are sold for.
Shell Cordovan
Of course, let’s start with the shell. Meermin doesn’t share who makes this shell. But, considering they do mention when they source shell from Horween or Shinki, it’s probably safe to say it doesn’t come from one of those tanneries.
I see a lot of people complain about this shell online. To be fair it isn’t quite at the same level as those. However, we need to be honest. A square foot of Horween Shell is ~$100 wholesale, and you need 4-6 feet for a given pair of boots. It doesn’t take much thought to understand a $425 pair of boots isn’t going to have $500 worth of shell in the upper.
Let’s start with what you’re giving up compared to some of the other options.
First, you’re likely to have less color consistency with this pair. Though as I mentioned above, I personally like a bit of variation in my shell so I don’t view that as a negative. However, if you are looking to mimic the look of Alden shell, these won’t be it.
Second, this shell is not treated as much from the factory. This means a rougher finish and a tendency to dry out faster. Most shell is scrapped to remove follicles, rolled through a machine to further flatten the leather, and finally coated in an acrylic finish. These differences seal the shell, so on this pair you’ll need to pay a little more attention to maintenance. The less heavily finished surface offers less protection, so keeping an eye on the leather’s condition and conditioning, when necessary, will be particularly important.
At the same time, you’re still going to get a material that is tough as nails and, with reasonable care, will certainly outlast everything else on the boot, for a price point less than a company like Alden or Allen Edmunds is paying for raw materials.
Other Materials
Beyond the shell, the most interesting material on the upper for me is the use of horsehide for the lining. This is probably overkill, especially on a boot that focuses on providing a low-cost option, but utilizing horsehide will mean that the lining and the upper leather conform to your foot in the same way over time. While not quite as soft as cow lining, this will likely be more comfortable long-term.
Moving down the shoe, the insole and heel are both leather. These panels sit on top of a combination cork (in the rear) and foam (in the forefoot) insole. There is a smaller steel shank embedded in that midsole – more on that later. Finally, the whole boot is finished off with a leather outsole, heel, and welt.
Brass nails and waxed cotton laces finish off the detailing.
Construction
The Meermin Chukka is made using their “Flex Goodyear Welt” construction. At its core, Flex Goodyear Welt is made just like any other goodyear welt. A piece of fabric, known as “gemming” is attached to the insole of the boot. Then, a strip of leather – the welt – is sewn to the gemming and that thread is hidden behind the storm welting. Finally, the welt is sewn through to the outsole.
The benefits of this construction are that you can replace the outsole without touching the upper – only resewing to the welt. Since the welt is sewn to the gemming, that can also ultimately be replaced once or twice. With the goodyear welted construction and shell upper, these boots are almost certain to last you decades of regular wear.
As for tradeoffs, goodyear welting can take more time than other styles to break in, and it brings additional cost to the shoe when new.
What makes them a “flex” line is that the traditional cork used to fill the void left by all that stitching is foam instead of cork. The idea being that the foam will break in much quicker. While I’m not sure that makes as much sense on a shoe with a shell and horsehide upper, if you find you dislike the foam it will be replaced during the first resole anyway.
Speaking of construction, these boots are made in China, rather than the EU or US like most shell cordovan pairs.
Pricing & Value
The Meermin Chukka in shell cordovan comes in at a price of $425. While that certainly isn’t cheap, compared to other brands it isn’t even close. The most famous pair of cordovan Chukkas – Alden – come in at a price of just over $1,000 USD. Other brands such as Carmina or Jon Loftgren are even more.
You can’t even point to being made in China. The Grant Stone Chukka in suede, while a great pair of shoes, comes in at a price similar to the shell Meermins.
Just considering the bill of materials, these represent a pretty stellar value. Of course, you’re not buying a pile of materials. You’re buying a finished boot, and the clean stitching and classic design make this an even more compelling proposition.
If $425 doesn’t fit what you’re looking to send on a pair of Chukkas, Meermin’s non-shell alternatives come in at $250 USD – though you’re giving up the horsehide lining and storm welt as well
Wrap Up
The new-design Meermin Chukka really impressed me for the price that they are charging. It ditches some of the more awkward features of the older pattern while adding a more comfortable and modern feeling last. While I’m sure the waxy leather and nubuck versions are great, the shell cordovan model is a real star.
The Meermin Chukka is for you if you’re looking for a way to elevate classic fall outfits while hitting all the small details without breaking the bank. The burgundy color, the flat last, and the two eyelet design have been a staple for fall wardrobes for decades and the tough shell upper means you won’t need to worry about babying them.
The Meermin Chukka might not be for you if you have an extra wide foot, or are looking for the true “end game” Chukka. While this pair offers outstanding value, it is not a 1-to-1 replacement for something like the Alden either in design or materials. If that’s you, and your wallet allows for it, you’re probably better off buying once and crying once.
