Alden Chukka: Narrowly the Best

January 5, 2025January 4, 2025 by 100wears

Price: $680-696

Why Buy?

The Alden Chukka offers what many consider to be the quintessential chukka boot, and is amazingly comfortable as well.

Why Avoid?

The Alden Chukka has a price in the stratosphere, and the sizing will be difficult for many guys.

Specs

Model	Chukka
Height	4″
Size	12 D
Weight	588 g / 1 lb 4.7 oz
Materials	Suede / Leather
Construction	Goodyear Welt
Country of Origin	United States

Why Consider the Alden Chukka?

Chukka boots definitely had their moment in the sun a few years ago. From memes on reddit to the Allen Edmonds Mass Drop that I’m still upset I skipped three different times; it seemed like everyone loved these boots. In the time since, the tide has definitely turned. Men’s fashion shifted away from svelte fits that chukkas thrive in to wider and chunkier fits.

However, not only was the chukka a men’s wear icon long before it was a meme, there has also been a reversal in trends. Outfits are becoming slimmer and dressier. It might be time to consider once again breaking out your pair of chukkas.

But what if you don’t already have a pair in hand? The most suggested chukka for those without major budgetary constraints is the pair we are going to be looking at today: the Alden Chukka. Particularly in a make up in snuff suede.

However, while pant legs might be getting smaller, Alden’s prices certainly have not. With these coming in at nearly twice what they cost the last time this style of boot was popular, should you really consider this over other options?

Let’s dive in and find out.

Looks

Upper

This particular pair of Alden Chukka boots is the collaboration with J Crew, though it is extremely similar to the 1493. The upper on this boot is made of 4 pieces of extremely soft and supple suede in the snuff colorway. Snuff suede, if you’re not familiar, is a medium brown color suede that is often associated with ivy style.

Stitching on the upper is minimal, with two rows of stitching that run around the collar, past the eyelets, and close to the bottom of the boot. Around an inch from the bottom, Alden used an additional stitch to provide a better connection for the quarters. A heel panel keeps everything together in the back.

The suede is almost entirely unlined – with the exception being around the throat and just behind your heel. This adds an extremely floppy look to the upper, which some may like both others may see as lacking formality.

Another defining feature of this pair of boots is the comparatively low cut. While labeled as a “chukka boot,” it’s barely taller than most shoes. Add in the lack of structure to the point they sit even lower on your foot, and these really should be called chukka shoes.

Alden decided to go with the classic two-eyelet design. Here you’ll find the difference in the J Crew model – where Alden traditionally goes with blind eyelets, this pair has brass. In reality, nobody is going to notice the difference.

Mid- and Outsole

When you take a look at the bottom half of your Alden Chukka – at least most of them – you’ll find Alden’s “flexible” leather outsole. The single leather outsole treated with oil, making it visually darker out of the box.

The heel is more similar to a dress shoe in height instead of a boot. That might not be a bad thing, considering the Alden Chukka is more like a dress shoe in height overall.

A storm welt holds all of this together.

The stitching on the outsole and welt is suburb. I was only able to find a single stitch that was not perfect, and it was just a bit of fraying.

Summary

The Alden Chukka boot is an extremely versatile pair of chukka boots if you’re looking for something to wear in more business casual outfits. While Alden was not the first to create a chukka boot, their particular make up has been copied by countless others. In many ways this design feels like the “correct” way to make it.

All that being said, several of the design choices Alden made mean these are less ideal in your purely casual outfits. The shorter height and slim profile in particular means they don’t really work with jeans. Even something like a t-shirt will be difficult.

However, if your style skews preppy and you’re more likely to pull out chinos and a polo than jeans and a t-shirt, it’s likely these will work with nearly everything you own.

Fit & Comfort

Fit

This Alden Chukka was built on Alden’s Lydon last. Alden claims this is a true to size last, but in reality, it is very narrow. A D width in this will be more similar to most brand’s C width, especially in the toe box. Most people will want to take your standard size, but go up a width from what you normally would – D to E, E to EE, etc.

The problem you’re going to run into is that very few retailers carry the chukka in anything but a D (read: C) width.

If you’re looking for a bit of good news, as the upper is so incredibly soft and stretchy, you’ll probably be able to get away with the narrower size. At least as long as you’re not particularly wide footed. You might find a bit of overhang around your big toe, though.

It is worth noting, Alden does also make this pattern chukka on the much more forgiving Barrie last. There are some changes. The Barrie model is typically lined, uses a lugged or crepe outsole, and are harder to find in suede.

Comfort

Off the bat let’s make one thing clear – this is a leather soled and heeled boot. You’re not going to be getting an Ultraboost. That being said, this Alden Chukka is very comfortable – with a few caveats you should be aware off.

Starting off with the good, the upper is unbelievably soft. And I do mean unbelievably. If you hold these boots by the heel and shake the upper acts like Jello. I’d say they are as soft as slippers. But in reality? These are much softer than any slipper I’ve ever used.

Further, Alden does an amazing job with their insole and cork to have the shoe take your foot. They do it better than any other brand. And I’m including brands like Nick’s and White’s that have an inch of leather under your foot.

Now for the bad. The soft upper means there is zero, zilch, nada in the way of structure in the shoe. They are almost closer to flip flops than boots. Your foot can and will slip around, even if the fit is tighter than you would like. There is no avoiding it, it’s simply a feature of the design. I can’t imagine doing anything more than a slightly brisk walk in these.

Materials & Construction

Materials

The Alden Chukka is a fairly simple boot.

The majority of the upper is made using “calf suede” – Alden often doesn’t mention the tannery. However, even if we don’t know where exactly it came from, it’s great. It’s as good as any suede shoe I’ve ever held, including pairs from Edward Green. The suede is not treated though, so I’d avoid going out in the rain in these.

The upper is unlined, though there is extremely thin and flexible fabric backing under the heel cap piece and toe. Notably, this doesn’t even wrap around your heel, likely only being used so the promo shots don’t look like a pile of suede folded up on an outsole.

Speaking of the insole, I’ll avoid getting into again here, but Alden uses a leatherboard insole with a leather heel pad. Should it be veg tanned leather? Probably. Should you worry about it? Probably not.

Under the insole is a bit of cork and a metal shank, before you get to the single leather oiled outsole. An oiled outsole means that outsole was soaked in oil before it’s final tanning process. While there is a bit of debate about if it actually works, Alden claims this is more flexible and water resistant than standard leather outsoles. It’s still a leather outsole on a suede chukka, so you probably won’t be testing that water resistance anyway.

Construction

The Alden Chukka is made using goodyear welt construction (even if the welt has a fake norweigen stitch on it). This is the most common way of making higher end men’s footwear. If you’re looking for a more in-depth explanation, click here. However, the short version is that a strip of leather, known as a welt, is sewn to a piece of fabric glued to the upper, known as gemming. The outsole is then sewn to that welt, helping to preserve the leather of the upper.

Goodyear welting is known for it’s ease of resoling and generally good weather resistance. As for drawbacks, it can be more expensive to build, and requires the width of the welt limiting overall shoe design options.

Alden makes all of their shoes in the USA, though some of the components may be imported.

Ease of Care

When it comes to keeping your pair of Alden Chukkas in good shape, there are a few things you’ll want to do.

First and foremost, you will want to make sure you pick up a pair of wooden shoe trees. Alden makes a pair that will look nice, but you’ll be able to get the same benefit from a pair from Amazon for less than half the price. While you’re there, you might want to consider picking up a suede brush. Suede doesn’t get cleaned or conditioned like standard leather, but it is advisable to brush it when it gets dirty or scuffed.

If you do plan on wearing these in less ideal weather, you might want to consider a waterproofing spray. I should note, however, that most suede tanneries suggest against this as it can mess up the nap of the suede.

Once the sole has worn down, you can get these resoled pretty easily. If you want to stay in-brand, Alden does offer a resole service for a fairly eye-watering $219 dollars – though you do get a pair of shoe trees when they are returned. Instead, I would suggest taking them to your trusted local cobbler. They should be able to add a new sole on for around half that price.

Price

The Alden Chukka in suede with leather outsoles comes in at a price around $680, depending on your specific retailer. J Crew, who makes this pair, prices theirs on the higher end – $696 at time of writing – but runs “accidental” sales far more often than other retailers.

Less desirable outsoles or colors can sometimes be found listed at lower MSRPs as they tend to turn over significantly slower.

As for competitors, it depends how much you are willing to compromise on design. If you really like the Alden Chukka look, the only real way to save money is to try and find a pair of the Allen Edmonds Mass Drop Chukka. These have not been sold in years, so what you’ll find will be used, but it isn’t impossible to find used pairs that need a resole for under $50.

Though, while you’re there it might be worth looking for Alden’s as well. While not exactly common, if your size happens to be available, they can be found for under $400 if you’re really patient.

Are the Alden Chukka Boots Worth It?

OK, let’s get back to the question from the top. If you’re looking to pick up a pair of Chukka boots in 2025, should Alden be on your short list?

Starting off, it’s hard to argue against Alden nailing the Chukka look. It’s been copied by numerous brands over the past 10 years, but only one of them are still standing – Alden. If you want a pair of dressy chukkas that don’t look like they only work with a suit, these are the ones to get.

However, at nearly $700, it’s hard to suggest these are a good value pick up. This price puts Alden on the bad side of several Northampton shoe makers. Sure, I personally prefer the design of the Aldens, but the British using even better materials and paying a 10% import tariff.