Adidas Stan Smith 80s: Retro Done Right
Price: $160 [Mostly Sold Out; Check eBay for Current Prices]
Why Buy?
The Adidas Stan Smith 80s offers one of the most authentic retro experiences you’ll find in the sneaker world.
Why Avoid?
The Adidas Stan Smith 80s clearly prioritized authenticity over comfort or durability.
Specs
| Model | Stan Smith 80s |
| Height | Low |
| Materials | Leather / Rubber |
| Size | 13 |
| Weight | 454 g / 1 lb 0 oz |
| Countruction | Cemented and Partially Stitched Cup Sole |
| Country of Origin | Indonesia |
History
Today, we’re all familiar with the Adidas Stan Smith. Honestly, odds are really, really good that you already own one. 100wears has reviewed multiple styles. However, the one that’s been sitting in your closet for the past couple years isn’t the same sneaker that it was in the past. Over time, Adidas made this part bigger, this part smaller. Tried to save money in some places, but improve in others. Moved factories again and again. You get it – it’s not the same as it used to be.
In the past few months, though, Adidas has taken a page from Nike’s playbook and decided to release a true retro. A sneaker designed to be as close as possible to pairs from the past. Though, interestingly, Adidas didn’t target the original Stan Smith (or the Robert Haillet, as it was known). Instead, they picked the early 1980’s as the model they were going to build towards.
The brand is also very clear – despite this being the highest priced traditional-looking Stan Smith available at the moment, it isn’t supposed to be the most premium. The Stan Smith Lux fills that role. No, what you’re paying for here is authenticity.
Is it worth it? Let’s find out.
Looks
Upper
When it comes to the upper of the Adidas Stan Smith 80s, at first glance it doesn’t seem all that different. Green heel tab, three stripes in dots, white leather. However, once you take a closer look, you’ll notice that Adidas left no part untouched. Every single thing is new.
Starting with the overall shape, Adidas changed the last these are built on. Where the older (newer?) sneakers look a bit like a sausage, these are actually shaped like a human foot. Wider up front, narrower in the back. The heel cup of the sneaker also comes up much higher with a more noticeable curve.
Near the front of the Stan Smith 80s, Adidas pulled the laces and leather panels closer to the toe. This gives an impression of a smaller toe box, more similar to how Common Projects look today. Speaking of those laces, the shoe comes with very shiny nylon laces out of the box. These are the original design, though they can look a bit cheap. Cotton laces are included if it really bothers you.
One change that you might not notice at first is the lack of an interior lining. This means that those side holes go directly through to your socks.
Inside the sneaker, you get an old-school removable insole with the manufacturing sticker inside. The sticker says these were built in 2020, though the actual tag says 2022.
Perhaps the most controversial part of the sneaker will be the tongue. It is a flat piece of felt, with a plastic coating on top and raw edges. Honestly, it feels really cheap, but it is true to the original design. Again, if you don’t like it, the Lux is available for less money.
Mid and Outsole
Believe it or not, Adidas created an entirely new mold for the cup sole on the Stan Smith 80s. While similar in design from a few feet away, once you get close you’ll find that it isn’t the same as what you find on the other models.
Looking at the sneaker from the side, fist you’ll see that the shape has a more aggressive drop to it. The back of the cup sole is higher and the front lower. Next, the stitching holding the sole on is extremely wide. The widest I’ve seen in any shoe I’ve ever reviewed – around a half inch/centimeter. Finally, the Adidas logo is much fainter.
It’ll be easy to not see the logo once the sneakers get dirty.
Flipping the Stan Smith 80’s over, it’s the same story. First glance makes it seem like the same tooling, but there are small changes here at there. The adidas logo is smaller, the outline larger. The little nubs are more even than on modern pairs.
Summary
I’ve got to say: Adidas did an amazing job with the Stan Smith 80s. Again, if your goal is to get the fanciest Stan Smith, this isn’t it. However, the attention to detail continues to impress me. From sourcing smaller eyelets, to offering nylon laces but including cotton just in case – there is no thread unturned.
When you’re wearing them, literally nobody will notice they are different. But putting them on, you will.
As for styling them, I would wear exactly what you wear with any other Stan Smith. Basically, go on J Crew’s website and pick anything – it’ll all work.
Fit & Comfort
Fit
The Adidas Stan Smith 80s fits significantly different than the other Stan Smiths. Built on a last that is much more form fitting, it’s going to work a lot better for some guys, but a lot worse for others. In general, if you find that you have a bit too much space in the heel and too little in the toes, you’ll likely prefer this shape. Of course, the opposite is true too.
In either case, I find that these fit much more like other sneakers in overall size. Where more normal Stan Smiths run a bit large, meaning you’ll take a half size smaller, these will likely be your typical sneaker size.
The sneaker is extremely pliable, and will likely stretch slightly. If you are in-between sizes and could take either, consider going with the smaller one. However, never buy a size that is uncomfortable assuming it will stretch.
I took these in a size 13. For comparison, in a typical Stan Smith I wear a 12.5, 13 in a Jordan 1, and 12 in most stitched footwear.
For a full list of sizing for every shoe reviewed on this site, click here.
Comfort
Here’s the thing about 1980’s shoe technology. It’s terrible. Over the last 40 years, sneaker companies have made resounding strides in foams, knits, and more. To be true to the 80’s, you need to get rid of all of that.
All that is to say, the Adidas Stan Smith 80s is not a very comfortable shoe. There is hardly any foam underfoot, and the thin outsole (more on that later) transmits every bump to your foot. Again, if you want something more modern, the other Stan Smiths are for you.
There is one redeeming feature in comfort. The thinner, unlined upper makes these far more stretchy. It pulls the feel closer to that of a Jack Purcell, though only a bit.
Your feet won’t fall off if you’re wearing these, but if you’re going to be on your feet all day, you’ll probably want to wear another pair.
Materials & Construction
Materials
The biggest take away when it comes to materials in the Stan Smith 80s is the thinness of everything. The upper is thinner, the outsole is thinner. There is just less stuff.
The upper itself is made of a pretty nice – though, again, thin – leather. At least for an Adidas. There is still a plastic coating on it, but it is in line with smaller, more premium brands who sell in this price point. It isn’t all leather, though, the green heel portion and tongue are synthetic.
Inside, the rear of the sneaker is lined with real leather. Below that, a basic open cell foamed insole is covered with a vinal coating. The cheaper foam is forgivable, though the sizing is not. Both insoles are clearly designed for shoes at least 1 full size larger.
As for the outsole, it’s a fairly hard rubber. That certainly doesn’t help in the comfort perspective, but it will mean it’ll be much more durable than you would expect. Something you’ll need, since it’s so thin you can bend it with a finger.
The laces are nylon, though if you don’t like that there are cotton laces included.
Construction
The Adidas Stan Smith 80s are made with a cemented and partially sewn cup sole construction. What that means is the upper is made and then glued directly to the cup sole. Then, the cup sole is sewn through the upper to provide additional strength.
On this pair, only the front is sewn on.
This style of construction is often picked as it provides great durability and a classic look. The drawbacks are that it tends to be less flexible than other styles, and can cost more to make.
Pricing & Value
When it comes to pricing, all of these little details don’t come cheap. The Adidas Stan Smith 80s comes in at an MSRP of $160 making it the most expensive main-line Stan Smith to ever go on sale. A full $15 more than the “Lux” model that is designed to have the best materials and construction.
The traditional Stan Smith – now made of plastic – officially costs $100, though it is on sale for $80 at least 3 times a month. In other words, going with the 80s will double your cost.
Still, compared to other quality minimal sneakers, it still under cuts them all.
Are the Adidas Stan Smith 80s Worth It?
If the Adidas Stan Smith 80s are worth it to you will really depend on if you care about details that nobody will notice and in many ways make the shoe worse overall. And, to be clear, I don’t mean that in an insulting way or that anyone who doesn’t like this shoe best isn’t detail oriented.
The reality is that 99.99% of people on the street won’t be able to tell the difference between this and a generic Stan Smith. Half of those who do will probably think you’re wearing a pair of fakes. Further, the sneaker won’t feel as good on your feet or age as well as the Lux model.
However, if you genuinely wear your sneakers for you and appreciate the work that went into making these sneakers possible, it’s hard to argue with the price. There is not a square inch on this sneaker that wasn’t thoughtfully designed. In many ways, the Adidas Stan Smith 80s is wearable art.
Ultimately, if that describes you, I think you’ll be as impressed as I am.