New Balance 991: The Made in UK Pick
Price: $250
Why Buy?
The New Balance 991 offers incredible versatility, and is made in the United Kingdom.
Why Avoid?
The New Balance 991 is more expensive than other high-end New Balances (in the U.S.), and doesn’t have the latest tech.
Specs
| Model | 991 |
| Height | Low |
| Materials | Suede / Nubuck / EVA / Rubber |
| Size | 13 |
| Weight | 471 g / 1 lb 0.6 oz |
| Construction | Cemented |
| Country of Origin | United Kingdom |
History
If you’re at all familiar with New Balance you know how the models go, at least here in the U.S. There is the 990, which later got 5 more revisions. Then there is the 992, the 993, etc. However, you might have noticed that in the Made-in-America line there is one missing. That’s because if you’re looking for the first time New Balance updated their famous 990 you have to look across the Atlantic Ocean. You need to check out the UK-made New Balance 991.
First released in 2001 (then called the M991), the 991 offered significant improvements on top of the 990s. It also had a great cult following. Steve Jobs, who famously wore 992s wherever he went, actually started his love for the brand by wearing 991s.
All that being said, a few weeks back 100wears took a look at the 920. Ultimately, I felt that it just wasn’t worth the price over the Made-in-America pairs that cost less. At least, for those of us here in the United States. However, that model was always designed to be a fashion pair. Does this sneaker, once designed to be the best and most expensive sneaker on the planet, lead to a different outcome?
Let’s dive in and find out.
Looks
Upper
The upper of the New Balance 991 could arguably be called either the first modern New Balance, or the last retro one. It really looks like the 990v2 and the 992 had a baby – not a coincidence as this came out in between the two.
This colorway does a particularly good job telling this story. The yellow feels incredibly retro. Thick cuts of tan suede and nubuck (more on that later) wouldn’t be out of place on a 1980’s sneaker. At the same time, the grey sections are modern man-made materials. You even have reflective hits on the N and 991 logos, and at the bottom of the laces.
Adding to the old school feel, this sneaker is somewhat humble about where it is made. Most modern New Balances have “Made in US” or “Made in England” plastered all over them. Sometimes with a flag under the branding. Here you only find this information under the tongue. Those who need to know already do.
Inside, the entire sneaker is lined with a fairly thin grey fabric – though the tongue is incredibly puffy. Maybe not an SB Dunk, but thick none the less.
One area that I need to flag is the laces – they are great. Coming with both yellow and white on this colorway, they are probably the best laces I’ve ever seen on a pair of sneakers. I don’t know why more brands don’t do this. Good quality laces are pretty cheap, especially compared to the price of high-end sneakers.
One complaint I do have is loose stitching. There is a lot of it. Nothing that couldn’t be fixed with a few snips from some scissors – but it’s a bit thought to swallow some DIY on a pair this expensive.
Mid- and Outsole
Just like the upper, the bottom half of the New Balance 991 offers a great blend between retro and modern. Wedge shaped like their early running sneakers, once you get closer you can see the beginnings of the more organic style New Balance is known for today.
The midsole is actually made up of two different foams. More apparent on other colorways, on this the back half is a cream and the front a pure white.
The 991 also was one of the first sneakers to have little plastic pieces added onto the midsole for pure style. Most likely trying to cop that Air Max look, the grey shiny panels are just stuck on. One piece that does actually play a role is the small heel cap. Tying into a much larger one underneath the heel cap, it does a great job at keeping your foot in place.
Flipping the sneaker over, you’ll find a vast expanse of flat-ish rubber. Dyed grey in some areas and black in others, there isn’t too much going on other than a whole lot of N’s. One thing you might not notice is the plastic panel in the middle. Done in a matching grey and black, it actually acts as a shank in the shoe, providing more stability. Again, more on that later.
Summary
The party trick of the New Balance 991 is its versatility. Are you a hypebeast who only wears retro stuff? The 991 works. How about a dad who wants to wear something with your jeans? The 991 works. What about someone who focuses on high end products, or those made in the first world? The 991 works.
Honestly, other than more formal stuff or guys who wear an entire Rick Owens catalog, the 991 will work with almost everything. Well, maybe not in this particular colorway, but you know what I mean.
Other than some minor stuff like loose threads, there is really almost nothing to complain about here.
Fit & Comfort
Fit
Just like their other Made-in-UK sneakers, the New Balance 991 fits a bit wider and a bit shorter than sneakers you might be used to. For most people, this will be a good thing.
While the average man is what is known as a “D” width, most sneakers are made in a “B” width. (In the U.S., other countries use different letters for this). The idea is that since you’re supposed to be running or playing basketball in them, that more narrow fit will keep your fit in place better.
However, for casual wear, most guys end up going up a size or so in order to make the sneaker comfortable. The 991 is shaped more like a human foot, which is nice if you happen to have those. Though, if you have narrow feet, these might not fit you as well as other sneakers.
In order to keep people from getting confused, New Balance adapted their sizing to line up with what you are used to. I’m a 13 in most sneakers, and wear a 13 in these.
One last thing to be aware of – if you’re buying these from a European retailer, they might use UK sizing. Be sure to read carefully if they say US or UK sizing, and you can find the conversion chart here.
Comfort
The New Balance 991 is comfortable in a way that is fairly unique to New Balance in the sneaker world.
It isn’t plush like Boost or ZoomX is. You don’t sink into the sneaker, and it might even feel a bit hard under foot when you first put it on. However, what makes the 99X line of New Balance special isn’t the initial feel, but the end of day comfort.
Those softer foams are designed for running – after several hours of standing in them they begin to flatten out. They come back after sitting in your closet for a couple of days, but if you’re on your feet all day they can be downright painful.
The harder foam used in these and a lot of other sneakers from this brand give you support. You’ll feel better in these compared to those softer foams if you’re doing anything in between going for a run or sitting down.
On days where I’m doing a lot of walking, these would be among my top picks.
Materials & Construction
Materials
The materials in the New Balance 991 are really interesting.
First, on the upper, the brand didn’t use just a single type of leather. The toe and midfoot panels are a suede, but the heel cap and eyelets are made with a nubuck. If you’re not familiar with the differences, leather is typically split with the smooth top half and a suede bottom half. The suede is generally softer, but less durable. The top is more durable, but stiffer. Nubuck is made by taking that top half of leather and sanding it down so it looks like suede.
In other words, when it comes to this sneaker, on the panels that bend they used the more comfortable suede, and on the panels that don’t they used the more durable nubuck. Pretty cool to see them think through it so deeply.
Everything else on the upper is man-made materials – including the grey panels designed to look like leather. I do wish they used actual leather here, but it isn’t the end of the world.
Inside, behind the polyester lining and hard foam insole, New Balance used another really cool design. The heel cap also runs under your heel and all the way to the plastic shank on the outsole. This is something typically seen in orthopedic shoes, and should be great for long-term support. Even better, New Balance managed to do this without making the sneaker look like an orthopedic shoe.
The midsole is made with the brand’s Abzorb technology. This is EVA foam blended with rubber to make it firmer and more durable than typical EVA. The whole thing is finished off with a harder rubber outsole.
Construction
The New Balance 991 is made using what is known as cemented construction. The short version of this style of construction is that the upper is made and the glued onto the outsole using contact cement.
This style of construction is by far the most common way to make a sneaker. It offers the best flexibility and water resistance, while also being the most affordable option. When it comes to drawbacks, it is nearly impossible to resole and will rip more easily than most other types of construction.
It’s also important to note here – these are made in New Balance’s Flimby, UK factory. I know that for a lot of people where something is made doesn’t matter, but for others it matters a lot.
Pricing & Value
OK, are you ready?
The New Balance 991 costs $250.
That makes it one of the most expensive sneakers available from the big brands such as Nike and Adidas. It’s also $75 more than most of the Made in America New Balances, and $50 more than the brand new 990v6.
I could make excuses for New Balance – notably the tariffs that the US charges on sneakers from Europe that adds $50 to that price. But I won’t. If you’re on a budget, I can’t recommend this over one of those other options.
At the same time, unlike the 920 where I didn’t see any real reason to opt for it, I don’t think the 991 never makes sense. In fact, I’m keeping this pair that I paid for with my own money.
I am a huge New Balance fan, and they now make up the largest percentage of any sneaker brand in my closet, but none of them blend retro and modern as well as the 991. They look old school, but not so much that you have to plan your outfit around them. They also don’t have tech that looks like you’re trying to set a new lap record on your way to Target, but are still comfortable.
If you want a versatile, interesting sneaker and have the space in your wallet to afford them, the 991 should definitely be on your shopping list.