Nicks Urban Logger: $600 of Good Value?
Price: $569 – $800
Why Buy?
The Nicks Urban Logger offers a well-built option for a surprisingly good value.
Why Avoid?
The Nicks Urban Logger can look too overbuilt for some, and they are still shipped like their work-boot forefathers were.
Specs
| Model | Urban Logger |
| Height | 6″ |
| Materials | Leather / Rubber |
| Size | 11.5 E |
| Weight | 1.285 Kg / 2.83 Lb |
| Construction | Stitch down |
| Country of Origin | United States |
History
For a long time, the history of Nicks boots was mostly spread through internet forums. Indeed, when I first started to put this review together, I had sources from Reddit, Styleforum, etc. ready to go. I had spent hours finding at cataloging these so I could in order to provide a complete history. However, in the time it took to receive my boots, Nicks themselves put together a nearly 7-page history of the brand. Oh well.
Still, there are some great pieces within that document that are worth pulling. It’s well know that White’s is the tree from which most of the Pacific Northwest boot brands have grown. The Nick from Nicks boots got his start there. However, I need to highlight where Nick started his brand in secret on White’s property. When confronted about what he was doing, he said he was raising chickens.
As for the Urban Logger itself, it’s actually a newer style. Designed to take the bottom of their logger-style boots and make the top something you can wear in a less work-focused environment, the Nicks Urban Logger hit right at the peak of the Pacific Northwest boot craze.
It also raises a point that I think is important to make. There are a lot of different reasons people buy a boot like this, and I should be clear that this review is from a casual use perspective. I will not be logging, fighting fires, or herding cattle in these. This review will be much more on the “urban” side and a lot less of the “logger” side of the Urban Logger.
Ordering Timeline
As you’ll see, most of this review is pretty glowing. However, I need to start off with a bit of a warning. The lead times for ordering these are substantial. When I ordered these, the suggested lead time was 18-26 weeks, but I didn’t get mine for 28. Today, the same lead time is listed as 18-35 weeks.
There are ways to jump the line – quick ship boots are 8-12 weeks – but even then, you’ll be waiting a while. It’s a fact of life in 2023. These sorts of boots take a long, long time to get.
If you are planning on ordering a pair, be sure to check out the 100wears ordering guide. There are a lot of options to pick from, and you’re going to have a long time to double guess yourself while you wait. Making sure you get it right is critical.
Looks
Upper
The upper of this particular pair of Nicks Urban Logger is made in the limited run of their natural chromexcel. Any time Grant over at Nicks says nobody buys natty cxl, send him over to this review! If you’re not familiar with natural chromexcel, this leather is close to how it comes out after the chromexcel-specific tanning process without additional dyes. Out of the box, I’ll be the first to admit that there can be a bit of an almost sickly greenish hue. However, give it some time, and this leather gets a mid-brown glow that can’t be found anywhere else.
The stitching on the upper – mostly either triple or quadruple – is overall done really well. The only real sticking point is the leather above the heel counter is done tighter on the right boot. Visually it’s hard to tell, but it does make the right boot slightly stiffer.
The tongue on this pair is fully gusseted, and is made from an incredibly soft brown leather. I think that it’s a good look, and personally love the contrast, however Nicks makes it clear you can’t pick the color on the tongue. Don’t be surprised if your pair comes with tan, color 8, etc. All that being said, the makers will try to match the tongue to compliment the boots.
I opted for the brass eyelets, which was Nicks recommendation. I think they go really well with the natural colored leather, and would recommend the same if this is the color you opt for. However, there are two things you should know about the hooks.
First, they are ever-so-slightly smaller than the laces. As the laces break in, that’ll get better, but new it can be a pain. Second, the eyelets put scratches in one boot during shipping.
Mid- and Outsole
I have to say, the way Nicks puts together the mid and outsole on this boot was one of the big draws. At least for me.
For my Nicks Urban Loggers, I went with a honey-colored V100 outsole, and a natural leather finishing. Much like the upper, there isn’t much to complain about here. Overall, they did a great job attaching everything together, with a single loose thread at the very end of the stitchdown being the only real notable flaw.
Looking at the boot from the side, you’ll see a thick natural leather midsole on top of a rubber slip sole. This is then attached to a natural outsole. For the heel, 6 more stacks of leather separate the outsole from the heel cap. This particular honey-and-natural look is really bright overall. I like it, but if you don’t want to stand out, I’d suggest changing to a brown dye.
Flipping the boot over, you’ll find one of the hallmarks of Nicks – the multiple rows of stitching, combined with screws holding the outsole on. Again, I will never do anything to these boots that require this level of construction, but I love that it’s there.
This pair also has the logger heel. Or, in other words, the heel on these boots is cut with a curve. The original idea was that it helped lock your boot in when logging, however, in my experience, this also helps when walking around. On a heel this high, a block heel tends to hit the ground sooner than you might expect (or want).
Summary
The Nicks Urban Loggers are a boot that are truly what you make of them. In my design, I went for something that offered a unique look and an easier break in (more on that later). However, you can just as easily go for something more work-focused. Or something a bit more formal. Or you can go for an Americana which takes the formality up a step further (though, they are still not dressy).
I should touch a bit on the heel. It’s tall. Very tall. For me and my large feet, I think it works well. However, the height of the heel doesn’t change with the size of the boot. For smaller footed guys, the tall heel can be a bit much. If you’re looking for casual wear and under a size 10 or so, I would definitely consider going with the lower heel.
As for how I wear them, this particular colorway does make things a bit more difficult. Most of my pants are either khaki-colored chinos or darker colored denim. Neither works particularly well with boots this light. In the short time I’ve had them, a mid-blue cotton chino has been my go-to. For someone with a variety of options in my closet, that isn’t a big deal. However, if this is going to be one of just a few pairs, I’d consider something darker.
Fit & Comfort
Fit
All over the internet, you’ll hear the Nicks/White’s/etc. all use the same last for their 55 – which is what these Nicks Urban Loggers are built on. I can tell you that isn’t 100% accurate. While the overall shape is similar, these feel slightly smaller than the White’s 55 last. These are an 11.5 E and feel somewhere between the 11 E and 11.5 E 55 last I have from that brand.
Nicks in general tend to use a lot of stiffer materials, so in light of the sizing I’d suggest that if you think you’re in between sizes to go up rather than down.
The good news is that, if you mess up, Nicks will do an exchange for you on your first pair. Even custom pairs. You only get one, though, so try your best the first time if you can.
I ordered these in an 11.5 E. They are slightly smaller than I would have liked, but I think that going to a 12 D or 11.5 EE would cause fit issues elsewhere, so I believe this is the correct size for me. For comparison, I wear an 11.5 E or 11 E in White’s 55 last, an 11.5 in Viberg’s 2030 last, and a 12 in most stitched footwear. In sneakers, my go-to size is 13.
For a full list of sizing for every pair reviewed on this site, click here.
Comfort
When designing this pair, I knew that 1) I wanted to minimize break in time and 2) I would not be wearing these that hard. In light of that, almost every option I went for was selected on these Nicks Urban Loggers was selected to reach that goal. The upper is in chromexcel, unlined where possible, and the outsole is Vibram’s softest – the honey.
You know what? It worked!
Out of the box, these were already fairly soft. I know that some people take pride in breaking in a tough pair of boots, and more power to you if you want a stiffer leather. For me, though? This is great.
Don’t get me wrong, they are not soft, but there is a bit of squish in the outsole and my ankles can move as needed.
What about that arch stack? It’s not overbearing. It’s there, sure, but not at all uncomfortable.
I’m as shocked as anybody else to say that out of the box, the Nicks are very comfortable with almost zero break in.
Materials & Construction
Materials
Just a heads up – since Google penalizes you for having more than 300 words in any given section, I couldn’t possibly go over all the different materials you can get on a Nicks Urban Logger. There are literally thousands of possible combinations. I’d strongly suggest checking out the Pacific Northwest buying guide I mentioned above if you want to see that.
As for this specific pair of boots, there are zero things to complain about. All the materials are absolutely top notch. Starting with the upper, Nicks uses a 6-6.5 oz version of Horween’s chromexcel for their boots. You may not know, but there isn’t just one “chromexcel” leather. You can get it in a number of different weights (or thicknesses), and this is one of – but not the – thickest.
I think this is a good compromise. If you’re picking this type of leather over their work leathers, you want something soft, rather than the toughest thing you can get. There are no durability concerns at this weight, and it feels great. Between the heel leathers, Nicks uses a heavy veg-tanned leather heel counter.
Most of the buildup is underfoot, though. Going from top to bottom you have – a chrome tanned heel pad, a veg tanned insole, a veg tanned mid sole, a rubber slip sole, and a Vibram 100 outsole. Plus, a ton of nails AND several screws. Ultimately, each of these combines to make an incredibly durable build.
If you’re not aware, the honey Vibram 100 isn’t just a color difference. It’s the softer, more grippy option compared to the black version. This means it’ll be more comfortable, but will wear down quicker.
Construction
The Nicks Urban Logger is made using their classic stitchdown construction. If you want a more complete explanation of that, click here. However, the short version is that when making the boot, the uppers are flared out, and the stitching is then put through the upper, midsole(s), and outsole. The rear portion is nailed down under the heel.
This is one of the oldest ways of making footwear, and has recently seen a big increase in popularity. The benefits of this type of construction is that it is extremely weather proof. Unlike almost every other way of making shoes – such as blake or goodyear – there are no stitches into the inside of the boot. To put it another way, the only way for water to get in is through the leather itself.
The biggest drawback of this style of construction is that the upper is stretched to the edge of the boot. A big gash along the edge will directly cut into upper. This – along with needing to use the same holes during a resole – means that it’s easier to damage the upper leather of the boot.
Ease of Care
Nicks boots – the Urban Logger included – are specifically designed to last the test of time. However, that doesn’t mean they are maintenance free. Much like the materials section, in the interest of space I can only speak to the materials on this boot, but there isn’t much variation.
First, you’ll want to make sure your boots stay cleaned and conditioned. For most people, you’ll only need to use conditioner – I recommend Bick 4 – but if you actually plan on working in these a regular saddle soaping will help prevent dirt from building up in cracks and making them worse.
Additionally, shoe trees are an absolute necessity with soles this thick. Once you’ve noticed the soles curving to an extreme, it’s already too late. Buy a pair of wooden shoe trees, and use them whenever you’re not using the boots.
Of course, no outsole is going to last forever, and Nicks has you covered. From a heel replacement ($20) to a full resole ($219), once the rubber wears out you can get a new one on and keep going. One big benefit of going with this style of boot is you can even go further. If you find that the upper itself is worn – either through cracked leather or too many resoles – you can do a full rebuild. The only thing left when doing this is the shaft of the leather. In other words, you’re getting 99% of the work and materials for a new boot for half the cost ($330). Not a bad option to have.
Price
The exact price you pay for a Nicks Urban Logger depends on exactly what you build, however prices start at $569, and can go all the way up to around $800 if you go for every option. That being said, the $569 base price includes almost every leather, and almost every outsole. Most people will be able to find something for that price.
$570 sounds like a lot of money for a pair of boots (and it is a lot of money in general) but Nicks actually are one of the most affordable boots in this style. Their obvious competition – the White’s Bounty Hunter – start at $700. Viberg, who used to compete more directly with them, now hit $800 for a basic boot.
You can find both Drew’s and JK boots for less – each running $550 at time of writing. However, both brands have significant upcharges for customization to the point where changing even one thing will result in a price over the Urban Logger.
No, the only real way to get something more affordable is to go for something like the made-in-Mexico line from Drews. There is nothing wrong with buying something made abroad, of course. However, you’re still losing the customization you get from Nicks.
Maybe surprisingly to a lot of people out there, Nicks is the most budget friendly option in this style. At least if if made-in-America is on your list.
Are the Nicks Urban Logger Worth It?
Nicks, at least from their internet fans, can seem unapproachable at times. There is plenty of chest pounding about how you’re only a manly man if your boots take 2 years to break in. Certain YouTubers advertise that one particular brand is horrible because they focus on sissy things like comfort or wearability. They say you should buy Nicks instead.
Even setting aside some of the bravado, there are people who will berate you for buying Nicks and caring about construction quality or looks because “they’re work boots!”
For a lot of guys who just want a good looking pair of boots to wear to grab a drink or watch their kids play soccer, that’s a real turn off. Let’s be honest, in 2023 the number of men who actually need to do what the brand was founded to do is vanishingly small.
I’m here to tell you – don’t listen to them.
The Nicks Urban Logger is a comfortable, good-looking, well-made pair of boots. The break in isn’t nearly as bad as people make it out to be (assuming you get the right leathers and size). Even more impressive, for the type of boot you’re getting, Nicks is actually at just about the lowest price point you can find.
Of course, the style isn’t going to be for everyone. Nick over at Stridewise makes a good point in his review – for someone living in the city, you can feel a bit like you’re playing dress up. I have my own concerns as well. Notably, my pair arrived with a large scratch because Nicks doesn’t ship in their own shoe box. It’d have happened within the first few wears anyway, but I’d have happily paid $5 more for better shipping packaging.
However, the value proposition here is objectively undeniable. From boots designed to protect you, to boots designed to look good while you watch another guy fix your AC, the Urban Logger can do it all.